From an extraordinary villa and Japanese omakase to quiet wellness rituals by the water, two nights at Four Seasons Resort The Nam Hai passed far too quickly.

There is a television somewhere in my villa at Four Seasons Resort The Nam Hai, Hoi An. It took me a moment to find it.

At the touch of a button, the screen rises when you want it and disappears again when you don’t, leaving an uninterrupted view through the length of the villa towards the garden. It is one of countless little details that you begin noticing during a stay here.

My one-bedroom villa stretched gracefully from one end to the other, with each space flowing naturally into the next. At the back was a luxurious bathroom in white and grey stone, with an outdoor shower option, followed by a work area, lounge, a bed that you could quite happily spend the entire day in, and another sitting area looking towards the garden.

The details are everywhere: carefully chosen lampshades, mood lighting, shuttered blinds, a proper kettle and coffee machine, elegant cups, even cushioned lining inside the drawers. There is a well-equipped bar with a bartender’s mixer. Everything feels considered.

Then you return after dinner and find an entirely different room.

The turndown service transforms the villa. Candles are lit beside the bathtub, the lighting is softened and sheer fabric surrounds the bed. There is something wonderfully old-world about it. You feel a little like royalty retiring for the evening.

My first view of the resort was equally memorable.

From the open-air arrival area, you look straight down the length of the property towards the sea. Three infinity pools sit at different levels along the way, cascading visually towards the beach without interrupting the view. Villas are spread among palms and gardens, with the warm earth tones of the buildings blending naturally into the landscape.

Outside the villas are bicycles for getting around the resort. I loved the sight of them. They reminded me of those nostalgic photographs of Vietnam — people in traditional dress cycling along quiet country roads, often with rice fields stretching behind them.

I took one that evening as I headed to one of my favourite experiences of the stay.

Goodnight Kiss to the Earth takes place at the Heart of the Earth Spa. You sit beside the lake and write a love letter to the Earth, putting down your intentions and the things for which you are grateful. While we were writing, a gong was struck, its deep vibration carrying across the water and adding to the stillness of the moment. You then fold your letter into a paper lantern, light a small candle and set it floating across the lake. The resort describes it as a daily ritual to end the day.

Among the many things I am grateful for, I remember feeling thankful for that simple practice of stopping and actually thinking about them.

And I was certainly grateful to be at the Four Seasons.

Food occupied a fair amount of the next two days.

At La Sen, the resort’s contemporary Vietnamese restaurant beside the pool, I discovered the tuna tartare with avocado, radish and ginger marinade shortly after checking in. I liked it enough that, after golf the following day, I headed straight back and ordered exactly the same thing before a swim.

Breakfast at Café Nam Hai was exceptional. The spread is extensive, although I settled into my own routine almost immediately: avocado toast with beetroot salmon gravlax, green juice, chia and yogurt and a double espresso. I had the same breakfast both mornings. I like keeping things fresh and relatively light early in the day, particularly when golf is involved.

There was also a visiting Four Seasons chef presenting Indian regional flavours, which gave us a very good excuse to order his chicken biryani along with one of my personal favourites, butter chicken.

After golf the following day came the Nam Hai Vietnamese Bodywork at the Heart of the Earth Spa. The 60-minute treatment uses traditional techniques and medium pressure, designed around relaxation and rejuvenation.

The experience began in a separate room overlooking the lake with a fragrant footbath filled with herbs, citrus and other ingredients. It looked almost good enough to drink. My feet were very happy.

I wish I could provide a detailed account of the massage.

I fell asleep.

Which probably tells you everything you need to know.

Later that evening we headed to Sol & Sao — Spanish and Vietnamese for Sun and Stars — for cocktails. Sherry-based drinks before dinner proved a very pleasant way to move into what became the culinary highlight of my stay: NAYUU.

I have travelled to Tokyo regularly since 2005 and have been fortunate to experience many excellent omakase restaurants over the years. Chef de Cuisine Alex Moranda’s 14-course journey at NAYUU brought me right back to Japan.

Moranda is Spanish-born and Japanese-trained, having immersed himself in Japanese culture and cuisine from a young age and later studied at the Sushi Tokyo Academy. Together with his sous chef, Okta from Indonesia, he took us through a succession of beautifully prepared seafood flown in from Japan, creative courses and excellent wagyu.

Okta was also a joy to talk to. Sitting at the counter gave us the chance to hear about his own journey and how he had made his way to NAYUU while he and Chef Moranda took us through theirs, one course at a time.

It was a special dinner.

By then, two nights had disappeared very quickly.

There were still experiences I genuinely wanted to try: a sunset river cruise, the wet-rice farming experience where guests learn the different stages of rice cultivation, and the sunrise fish market excursion to watch Hoi An fishermen bringing in their catch before taking a traditional bamboo basket boat. Then there is the Hoi An Foodie Vespa Adventure, riding through streets and alleyways to eat at places frequented by locals.

You could easily spend several days here and have a completely different experience each day.

And I haven’t even really covered the pools, the beach, the grounds, the staff who casually stop to chat with you, or half the tiny details inside that villa.

Four Seasons The Nam Hai gives you the comforts and pampering you expect from the name, while also making it remarkably easy to experience the culture, food and rhythms of central Vietnam.

I arrived for two nights.

Next time, I’m staying longer.